Delta Deluxe Uniguard

Several people have asked me why I prefer the Deluxe UniGuard (model 34-976) over some of the other after market blade guards.

In my opinion, it's the best buy. For $250 (compared to $400 for most others) it does the same thing as well if not better. The only drawback is it's dust collection. The Excaliber by Sommerville Design excels in that area in my opinion. But it considerably more money.

The Uniguard comes with a splitter (see below) that is also available separately. It's a "must have" accessory.

The Deluxe Uniguard's two piece tube design makes it very handy and quick to change. The smaller top tube fits inside the larger tube. It's secured by a large hand crank knob. The top tube twists up and out of the way when you are cutting tennons for instance. And it can slide out completely and be removed when needed.
The following diagram attempts to explain how the two main tubes fit together and move in relation to each other and the table saw.

One issue that anyone who tries to mount a Uniguard to a saw with a Biesemeyer fence, is that the Uniguard's brackets are designed to be used on a tablesaw that has the old style tube rails or the Uniguard that does not have a rear rail. Because the Biesemeyer fence uses steel angle for the fence rails in the front and back, you have several options to this.

One is to cut out notches in the bottom portion of the back rail. I don't like making modifications like this.
The other is to place the Uniguard's tube directly onto of the angle and bolt it to that. I originally did that but discovered that I lost the Uniguards abilty to be easily repositioned, plus it still looked funny. Another option is to bolt the brackets to the fence rail horizontally rather than vertically, which would probably work, but would look the funniest. Finally, you can replace the rear angle with a flat bracket from Delta at a cost of about $50, or do what I did. I replaced the original Biesemeyer back rail to use the Uniguard mounting brackets. The ¼"x4" flat steel cost about $8. I actually had to buy 10' to get the cost up to the $15 minimun order. I used about half of it. It's thicker and heavier than the original rail. You could proably use something lighter, but most because it's so common, ¼" steel is often less expensive. I used the original fence rail to determine the places to drill the holes. The trickiest part was cutting out the notches behind the miter guage slots.


The Deluxe Uniguard has a place you can mount your power switch above the table. Click here for some information on this switch. Instead of moving the original switch from under the table to the overarm guard, I installed a new "primary" switch on the Deluxe Uniguard which feeds to the original switch below the tabletop.  It allows me to turn off the saw either over or under the table. I only use it to turn off the saw about 5% of the time,  but when I do it's really nice to have.

Delta Uniguard Splitter

I originally posted this article at Badger Pond ( July 2, 1999
Hello all!  Many people have been asking me for specifics on the splitter that comes with the Delta Deluxe Uniguard.
It's very similar to the $109 Biesemeyer splitter that pops in and only requires lifting the throatplate to pull a pin to remove, but it has a thumbwheel instead and requires lifting the thoatplate for removing and inserting the splitter.  But for $29 who's complaining.
It comes with the Deluxe Uniguard (model 34-976) but you can order it seperately (part number: 1349941 SPLITTER ASSY COMPLETE) from Delta (1-800-223-PART).  It will fit right-tilt and left-tilt Unisaws and has additional (smaller) screws and bushings to fit a 10" Contractor's saws and the 10" Tilting Arbor saw.
Even if you're a person who refuses to use a blade guard, you might like the added saftey and convince of a splitter like this.

In case you get the splitter without any manual here's a copy:




I built a folding extension table to go behind the Unisaw. Doing this on a Unisaw with a Deluxe Uniguard can be a little difficult because the Uniguard's brackets get in the way. I did an extensive job making everything work together and look really nice, which I guess wasn't entirely necessary to go as far as I did, but well... I did.

First, I removed the rear steel angle and replaced it with a flat steel plate (about 1/4" x 4" x 6') to give me more room to work back there. I attached the Uniguard brackets to the new steel plate. You can see that in the pictures above.

Then to attach the folding plywood extension table to the Unisaw, I made a special mounting bracket using a piece of 3/16" x 3" x 24" steel angle. I cut and shaped it to make it fit with the existing Uniguard brackets. I've got pictures someplace but can't find them now, but I've got this diagram (below) which basically shows how the steel angle is shaped. This angle sits behind the saw, allowing me to put the hinges about 3" beyond the edge of the tablesaw top, so that the extension table clears the Uniguard tube when it hangs down. There is 3" worth of extension table that doesn't move, directly attached to the tablesaw on this bracket, and then the rest of the extension table folds down. Because the Uniguard brackets extend up close to the tablesaw tabletop, I had to notch out a little of the plywood to clear those brackets that actually stick up higher than the new angle iron bracket.

When attaching the new angle bracket to the Unisaw, I found that if you drill the holes larger in the angle iron, and use large washers, you have some room for adjustment when bolting the angle iron to the Unisaw, which allows you to fine tune the height of the extension table.

Guess I really should get some photos.


© 2008 Mark Goodall